Old Delhi’s nihari and korma are more than iconic dishes—they are edible history. Rooted in Shahjahanabad’s Mughal kitchens and carried through generations of cooks, these slow-cooked classics ...

It’s a little after 9 am on a balmy February morning, and the dense lanes of old Delhi have begun to put themselves together. The cables hang over one’s shoulders, the labourers draw up carts to ...